Box Turtle Care
Box turtles are the most common reptile pets in the United States. With proper care they are long lived, with life spans of 30 to 40 years and perhaps much longer. The longevity record in captivity is 26.5 years. Just like any animal, they have specialized requirements which must be met for them to do well. Unfortunately, they are among the most neglected reptiles in captivity, because most people just do not know how to care for them properly. The majority of clinical treatment with box turtles is devoted to improving husbandry.
Several subspecies of box turtle are common in the pet trade in the United States. The Eastern box turtles, Terrapene carolina sp., are found throughout the eastern United States in a variety of habitats from deciduous forest to grassland. These turtles are opportunistic omnivores, although youngsters are chiefly carnivorous. Adults eat a wide variety of foods including land snails, beetles, sowbugs, millipedes, slugs, earthworms, spiders, carrion, small mammals, birds, crayfish, frogs, salamanders, lizards, snakes, smaller turtles, and plant material such as mushrooms, strawberries, raspberries, mulberries, and tomatoes.
Six subspecies are known and differentiating them occasionally can be difficult because of intergradations. The Eastern box turtle, Terrapene c. carolina, is found from Maine south into Georgia and west to Michigan, Illinois, and Tennessee. It tends to have more color than the other species. The Gulf Coast box turtle, Terrapene c. major, is distinctive because it is the largest of the group, and the rear margins of its carapace flare outward. They are found along the Gulf Coast from the Florida panhandle into eastern Texas. The Florida box turtle, Terrapene c. bauri, is found in peninsular Florida and into the Florida Keys. This subspecies usually has three toes on its rear foot (compared to four toes in the previous subspecies) and has two lines on the side of its head. It is no longer exported from Florida and is now rare in the pet trade. The three-toed box turtle, Terrapene c. triungius, is found from Missouri radiating south to eastern Texas and across to Alabama. It is very common in the pet trade and has a dull olive shell with colorful red, orange, or yellow scalation on the head and forelimbs, especially in males. Generally, they have three toes on the hind legs, but individuals of all three-toed subspecies can have four toes on their hind legs." There are two Mexican subspecies of Terrapene carolina as well.
The ornate box turtle, Terrapene ornta ornata, is found in the Midwestern United States from Iowa, South Dakota, and eastern Wyoming south to New Mexico, Texas, and southwestern Louisiana, with isolated populations in Wisconsin, Illinois, and Indiana. Much of this habitat overlaps that of the three-toed box turtle; however, the ornate box turtle prefers more arid, oper4 sandy habitat such as plains and prairie but also is found in open woodland. The carapace is much less domed than the Terrapene carolina sp. This is also a very common species in the pet trade but tends to be more difficult to maintain than T. carolina sp. Another subspecies, the desert box turtle, Terrapene o. luteola, is found from the Texas panhandle to Arizona and south into Mexico. Ninety percent of the diet of the ornate turtle consists of insects (particularly dung beetles, caterpillars, cicadas, and grasshoppers), but they also exploit seasonally available foods like mulberries. They also eat leaves, tender shoots, and carrion in the wild. Unlike Terrapene Carolina, they frequently utilize burrows. Their activity is greatly increased after rainfall.
In most forms, females lay two to eight (normally four to six) eggs from May through July but often fail to lay in captivity. Multiple clutches are possible. Females can store sperm and lay fertile eggs for up to four years after fertilization. Eggs should be incubated in vermiculite at 27º C (80º F) and hatch in two to three months if fertile. Temperature dependent sex determination produces males at lower incubation temperatures and females at higher incubation temperatures.
Twenty-gallon aquariums or larger work well for box turtles, or one can make larger cages out of plywood (sealed with polyurethane) or use concrete mixing containers available in most hardware stores. The bigger the cage, the better. The bottom of the cage can be filled with newspaper, astroturf, indoor-outdoor carpeting, straw, hay, medium wood chips, or alfalfa pellets. The latter substrates are good, because box turtles like to burrow but need to be completely changed every few months. Feces need to be scooped out on a weekly basis. Gravel, sand kitty litter, crushed walnut shells, or potting soil should all be avoided because they can cause intestinal blockage and are difficult to keep clean. A hide box that the turtle can get under and out of sight is important. Many turtles prefer to sleep in them.
The cage should get no colder than 21º C (70º F) at night and gradually warm to 27º to 30º C (800 to86º F)during the day. During the day a 75-tolOO-watt incandescent bulb with reflector can provide a warm basking area at one end of the cage. Lights should be turned off during the night, so supplemental heat from heat tape or heating pads also should be provided under one-half of the cage. Hot rocks do not work well for turtles because they fail to warm the air temperature adequately, and the turtleso thick rigid shells prevent effective conductive heat transfer. In addition, turtles do not naturally bask on rocks. Hot rocks work better if buried in the substrate. The ideal situation is to keep the room temperature between 21º C (70º F) to 30º C (80º F) with a space heater. Make sure a thermometer is present so one can accurately monitor cage temperature.
Ultraviolet lights should be provided if mice are not a regular part of the diet (see lighting section). Put the lights on a timer so that the turtles get 12 to 14 hours of light per day, and turn all lights off at night.
During the summer months in Colorado (mid-May into September and sometimes later), many turtles do well outdoors in the back yard or in a fenced enclosure. Make sure the enclosure has some shade so the turtles can escape the hot sun when needed. They need an area of dense shrubbery or dry leaves to burrow into during the hottest portion of the day. If this is not available, provide a wooden shelter for them to get underneath. Box turtles are accomplished burrowers, so seal under fence boarders with bricks or rocks or bury the fencing 8 to 12 inches. They also can climb over fencing less than 12 inches high. Bring turtles indoors whenever the temperature drops into the low 60s.
Dogs are very fond of chewing on box turtles, whereas raccoons and opossums will eat them. This is a hazard one should warn owners about, because a dog can do a tremendous amount of damage in a short time. Owners often insist their dog will do no harm and later find they were seriously mistaken.
An easy-to-clean shallow water dish big enough that the turtle can get into it should always be available. Be sure the sides are shallow enough that the turtle can get in and out easily. Water depth should be no deeper than the turtle's chin when its head is partially retracted. Box turtles cannot swim and will drown if submerged. Turtles prefer to defecate in their water bowl, so it should be cleaned daily. Constipation often results if the turtle is not allowed to soak at least three times per week. Many people feel box turtles only need water three times per week. The author strongly disagrees with this; turtles need access to water at all times.
Box turtles are active from March until October or November in the wild, but it varies depending on locale and subspecies. After this, they generally hibernate for the winter. Some box turtles skip this in captivity, especially if the conditions stay warm and the photoperiod persists at 12 to 14 hours light per day. Others, however, will stop eating in the early fall regardless of environmental conditions. Hibernation is recommended for healthy specimens.
In order to survive hibernation, the turtle must be in good body weight and health. A physical examination several weeks prior to hibernation is advisable to determine if the turtle is healthy enough for hibernation. Sick, convalescing, or underweight turtles should not be hibernated! Turtles should be well fed in the late summer to prepare them for hibernation. Carbohydrate-rich fruits and vegetables such as squash, figs, melons, apples, sprouts, and alfalfa pellets six weeks prior to the onset of hibernation for hibernating tortoises. It seems reasonable to recommend this for box turtles, but introduce these foods slowly over a week or two to avoid overproduction of intestinal gas.
In early October or as soon as the turtles appetite noticeably decreases in early fall, withhold food (but not water) for one to two weeks, but keep the turtle between 21º to 27º C (70º to 80º F). This gives the box turtle time to clear its gastrointestinal tract of any food remaining in it. This is important because, once hibernation starts, the turtles metabolism slows down and digestion also slows. After this, remove external heat sources and allow the turtle to acclimatize to room temperature (16º to 21º C or 60º to 70º F). After a week at room temperature, the turtle should be ready to enter the hibernaculum.
One can hibernate box turtles indoors or outdoors. Outdoor hibernation is potentially more dangerous, because one cannot monitor the turtle or control environmental conditions. For indoor hibernation, select a draft-free dry area with dim light that can be kept between 7º to 16ºC (45º to 60ºF) for the winter. A basement, garage, back porch, crawl space, wine cellar, or north- or east-facing closet or window all can provide cool enough areas. Use a minimum-maximum thermometer to check temperatures several weeks before hibernation. Temperatures should stay between 10o to 16ºC (50º to 60ºF) with an occasional drop to 7ºC (45ºF). Persistent temperatures above 16ºC (60ºF) are not cool enough for hibernation, and the turtles metabolism will be high enough that it will slowly starve. Prolonged temperatures below 7ºC (45ºF) are too cold and can be detrimental. Although freeze tolerant, temperatures near or below freezing should be avoided.
A hibernaculum can be set up with a large box, crate, cooler, or aquarium with a foot of slightly humid peat-based potting soils and a three- to six-inch layer of shredded newspaper, dried leaves, or hay on top. Make sure there are not any pesticides on the leaves or they could overwhelm the turtle during the long winter. The turtle will burrow into the soil and should remain inactive. The soil should not be wet but be humid enough that the turtle does not dehydrate. Make sure the hibernaculum is not resting directly on cold cement. A small water bowl should be present on the surface so the turtle can drink if it becomes active enough to do so during hibernation.
In general, three to five months is a sufficient length of time for hibernation, but a lot depends on local conditions and the animal itself. The owner should check the turtle periodically throughout the dormant period. Pneumonia is especially common during hibernation. If signs of respiratory illness (excess mucus in mouth gurgling breathing sounds, nasal discharge) develop, warn the turtle up to 27ºC (80ºF) and begin appropriate treatment.
Hibernating outdoors is much more hazardous. Select an area sheltered from the wind with two to three feet of loosened soil. Be sure the area drains well and is not prone to flooding. The turtle will burrow into the soil and attempt to stay below the frost line. Spread a foot of loose leaves or hay over the soil. Alternatively, loose soil near a foundation can work well. With luck, the turtle will emerge five to six months later in the spring. In the wild most box turtles enter hibernation from October to November and emerge in March or April; this varies with local conditions.
Diet is the most difficult area of box turtle care. Almost all the problems the author treats in box turtles are directly related to inadequate diet. Box turtles are much more carnivorous than most people realize, and ornate box turtles are much more insectivorous than the eastern subspecies. One-third to one-half of the diet should be plant based and the other one-half to two-thirds of the diet should be animal matter based. Dietary recommendations are based on my own experience, and several other sources. Those items listed in bold type are some of their favorites and often will entice anorexic turtles to eat.
Of the plant-based portion, 70% to 80% should be vegetable based and 20% to 30% fruit based." Good vegetables include dark leafy greens, (collard greens, mustard, radish, turnip and beet tops, kale, bok choy, escarole, spinach, Swiss chard, watercress, savoy, romaine lettuce, dandelions, broccoli rabe), shredded squashes, sweet potatoes, carrots, thawed frozen mixed vegetables (peas, corn, carrots, green beans, and lima beans), alfalfa, radish or bean sprouts, soaked alfalfa pellets, tomatoes, mushrooms, bell peppers, broccoli, chopped green beans or peas in the pod and cactus pads (with the spines shaved off). Box turtles have a continuous need for vitamin A-rich foods. Liver is an excellent source of vitamin A as well as rich yellow or dark-orange-colored vegetables (carrots, sweet potatoes, butternut and winter squashes) and dark leafy greens (dandelion greens, spinach, turnip, and mustard greens). Steaming (not boiling) hard squashes often increases palatability. Spinach and beets have calcium binders in them, so feed them in moderation. Cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale can cause thyroid problems if fed exclusively but are fine in moderation. Rhubarb leaves are toxic and should never be fed.
Less than 30% of the plant portion should be fruits such as apples, grapes, cherries, peaches, pears, plums, figs, melons, strawberries, and raspberries. Fruits tend to be mineral poor but tasty, so box turtles will eat fruits to the exclusion of healthier foods. They should be limited.
The other one-half to two-thirds of the diet should be animal protein based. Examples include earthworms, crickets, waxworms, mealworms, silk moth larvae, grasshoppers, slugs, other insects, dog food (semi-moist, canned or soaked dry), whole skinned chopped mice baby mice (pinkies), goldfish, soaked trout chow, soaked pelleted parrot diets, soaked monkey chow biscuits, and sardines. Avoid cat food because it is too high in protein, fat, and vitamin D for reptiles. Dog food and monkey chow biscuits have high levels of vitamins A and D in them. As a general rule, limit these items to less than 5 % of the total diet. Insects are calcium deficient and should be dusted with powdered calcium carbonate, lactate, or gluconate just prior to offering them to the turtle. Feed a wide variety of animal matter, not just a few of these items.
Salads should consist of two types of dark leafy greens, thawed frozen mixed vegetables, several types of vegetables, one type of fruit, and a protein source. Wash fruits and vegetables, and chop all items into bite-sized pieces and thoroughly mix them so finicky eaters will be forced to eat more items. Salad can be made once a week and refrigerated. Each week the salad should vary. A fine dusting of calcium lactate, carbonate, or gluconate should be placed on each salad. Twice a month substitute a light dusting of bird or reptile multivitamin for the calcium. Adults should be fed three or more times per week in the morning and juveniles daily. Feed as much variety as possible to ensure a healthy balanced diet.
For finicky eaters, try some of their favorite foods and keep in mind that box turtles are particularly attracted to red-, yellow- and orange-colored foods. Live moving food is attacked with relish; pinkies and earthworms usually are too good for the most recalcitrant turtle to pass up. When you find something they really like, mix it heavily into the salad and then gradually decrease it over a period of weeks. One must be patient, because bad dietary habits can be difficult to overcome. Have the owner continue to offer foods even if they are not eaten initially. Dietary changes often require months for acceptance, so do not give up.
Most box turtles are wild caught and individuals can be difficult to adapt to captivity, although some do well from the start. If healthy, new arrivals should be set up in as large a cage as possible or placed outdoors if the weather is favorable. Leave them alone until they start feeding well, which can take a few days to weeks or even months. They are naturally secretive animals, and frequent handling or watching will deter them from settling into captivity. Make sure they have a hide box. In the wild box turtles are most active in early morning or late afternoon when it is not too hot, so these are good times to try and feed them. Rainstorms often increase activity, thus spraying their cage can stimulate appetite.
Box turtles are hardy durable pets that will survive under less favorable conditions then we have discussed, but at the same time we know that good health is inextricably dependent on good husbandry.
Wouldn’t you love somebody to love?
We’re supporters of
Pets Alive Westchester’s
mission to find homes for shelter dogs and cats, and proud sponsors of the
WFAS adoption of the week.
Check out AVMA's, Animal Tracks, a weekly podcast on animal health issues.
PetsMatter Bi-Monthly Newsletter
PetsMatter is your bi-monthly dose of pet health, behavior and lifestyle articles from veterinary professionals.
Westchester’s Best Vets
No surprise to our staff or our clients – we’ve got great people at Bond Animal Hospital! Our doctors were named among the county’s best veterinarians in the March issue of Westchester Magazine!
Check out their article here.
Breaking News:
Canine Influenza Update »
Animal Care Help:
Handouts on Pet Care and Training »
Educational Videos (e.g., dog training) »
When to see your vet:
Five reasons to see your veterinarian today
- Bleeding from anywhere
- Vomiting with a loss of appetite
- Acute pain – including eyes (squinting)
- Respiratory difficulty
- Sudden and extreme lethargy
Five reasons to see your veterinarian tomorrow
- Acute lameness
- Intense itching
- Decreased appetite
- Increased thirst or urination
- Persistent diarrhea
Five reasons to see your veterinarian soon
- Decrease in weight
- Change in activity levels
- Hair loss
- Bad breath
- Chronic lameness
Dental Health
PetFit Challenge
Pet owners understand that obesity is about more than appearance. Scientific evidence shows that obesity is a condition that can lead to serious disease. In conjunction with the AVMA and Hill’s our hospital is focused on raising awareness about the right way to achieve and maintain healthy weight:
- Proper nutrition
- Increased physical activity
- Regular veterinary visits
Click on the link above for tools to help you increase your pet’s activity, decrease their weight and start them living a happier and healthier life!
Bond Animal Hospital
250 Central Avenue
White Plains, New York 10606
general map |
view map»
Legal Notice | General Website Disclaimer
Website errors? Contact the Healthcommunities.com webmaster.
Please provide the website address in your message.
(Messages sent to Healthcommunities.com will not reach the practice.)
© 1998–2010 Healthcommunities.com, Inc. All rights reserved.
Medical Website Design by Healthcommunities.com